THE HUSTLE AND FLOW IN NAIROBI’S INFAMOUS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

Kiamaiko is a neighbourhood infamous for its gritty reputation—a place where crime, poverty, and danger are said to lurk around every corner. But beyond the headlines and horror stories is a community of resilience where life thrives in the most unexpected ways. I ventured into the depths of Kiamaiko and uncovered the untold stories of hustle, hope, and humanity.

Nairobi is distinguished by its rapid urban expansion, boasting the highest annual growth rate across Africa. This growth, while a testament to the city’s dynamism, presents significant challenges. About 60% of Nairobi’s urban population growth is absorbed by informal settlements. These settlements, though covering only 20% of the city’s residential land area, are home to at least half of the city’s population.

Kiamaiko, one of Nairobi’s most infamous neighbourhoods, exemplifies the challenges faced by these densely populated areas. Often ranked as one of the most dangerous areas in Nairobi, it struggles with high crime rates, poverty, and a reputation for illegal activities, including drug dealing, illegal dumping, and the production of counterfeit goods.

Nestled within Nairobi County, Kiamaiko is surrounded by other well-known neighbourhoods such as Kariobangi, Huruma, and Mathare, each with its unique challenges and characteristics. The area is divided into different gang territories, contributing to its notoriety. However, despite the negative image portrayed by mainstream media, I was determined to visit it to gain a deeper, more nuanced understanding of this ‘horrific’ place. Kiamaiko is not just a place of struggle and survival; it is also a community, home to thousands of families who, despite the odds, have found ways to thrive.

It is particularly known for hosting one of Nairobi’s largest slaughterhouses. My guide, David Kirima, a local who knows the area intimately, took me to some of the best places where locals empower themselves and carry out their day-to-day activities. Through his eyes, I began to see the other side of Kiamaiko—one often overshadowed by its darker reputation.

The Lifeblood

The famous market in Kiamaiko is well-known for selling affordable meat to the residents. This business is a thriving venture that has employed over 1,000 individuals in the area. Young men and women have found livelihood opportunities in this trade, which promises substantial rewards for those who are dedicated to selling high-quality, fresh produce.

However, the meat traders in Kiamaiko have not been without their challenges. In April 2022, the community faced a significant threat when the government sought to close down the slaughterhouses. The traders, however, obtained court orders that temporarily halted the closure.

The National Environment Management Authority of Kenya (NEMA) later became involved, and on March 8, 2024, announced that it had initiated the process of closing the slaughterhouses, following a court order issued on July 28, 2022. According to NEMA, the decision was based on environmental concerns, and the government subsequently withdrew all its services from the Kiamaiko slaughterhouses.

During my visit, I spoke with Agnes Wangui, a meat vendor and mother of two, who shared her experiences with me. Despite the uncertainty and the challenges, Agnes expressed her relief and joy at seeing the slaughterhouses open and business returning to normal. She specializes in selling goat heads and legs, which are in high demand for making ‘Kienyeji’ soup, a traditional dish that is particularly popular in Nairobi.

While many might find her work unappealing, it has enabled her to provide for her family, pay rent, cover basic needs, and ensure her children’s education. As a single mother, Agnes takes immense pride in her work, which has empowered her and boosted her confidence. “I have done this job for four years now, earning at least 300-400 shillings daily. This is my office,” she reveals. She is proud of the life she has built and advises young women to embrace the hustle and empower themselves to live dignified, independent lives.

As I continued my exploration, I couldn’t help but notice the numerous mutura stands that lined the streets. Mutura, often referred to as African sausage, is a popular treat made from the small and large intestines of goats and cows, often filled with a mixture of meat, blood, and spices. The fire-grilled meat is a delicacy enjoyed by many, and it is common to see people gathered around these stands, eating with their hands and not overly concerned about where the meat comes from.

David explained that these stands are particularly busy after 5:00 pm when people get off from work. The demand is so high that if you arrive a few hours later, you might find the stands empty. “It’s an honest living which has helped reform many young men in the area,” he whispered as we ordered some.

Hope and Empowerment

He then suggested we visit another popular local business that has captured the hearts of the residents. Tucked away in a hidden corner of the neighbourhood is a small shack adorned with a striking Grand Theft Auto graffiti mural. Inside, I met two Ethiopian sisters who were running a thriving coffee business. Ethiopia is renowned for its diverse array of coffee bean varietals, and the sisters’ coffee lived up to this reputation. Their coffee, with its distinct fruity flavours and floral notes, stood out even in a city like Nairobi, where coffee culture is strong.

Khadija, one of the sisters, shared with me the story of how they started their business. Initially, they were sceptical, especially because of their nationality and the challenges of integrating into a new community. The language barrier was a significant obstacle, but over time, Khadija became fluent in Swahili, which dramatically improved their interactions with the locals and boosted their business. The process they use is meticulous—hand-picking the chaff from the coffee beans, roasting them in a flat pan while stirring every two minutes, and finally brewing the coffee to perfection. After enjoying a hot cup of their coffee, we bid the sisters farewell and continued our journey.

Our next stop was David’s favourite street food vendor, who sells chapatis—a round, flat, unleavened bread made of whole wheat flour and cooked on a griddle. Chapatis are a staple in Kenyan cuisine, and this vendor’s version was exceptional.

Throughout my visit, I was struck by the contrast between Kiamaiko’s reputation and the reality I experienced. Despite being labelled one of Nairobi’s most dangerous places, I never once felt in danger. We walked through the streets carrying filming equipment, and rather than hostility, we were met with support from the locals. They appreciated our effort to change the narrative that has long painted them in a negative light and left them feeling shunned by society.

In Kiamaiko, the hustle is real. Everyone is busy working to earn their living, and while gang territories exist, the streets are calm, and business is conducted in a civilized manner. The neighbourhood is a hive of activity, with diverse businesses thriving despite the challenges. Through my experience, I came to realize that there is absolutely nothing shameful about making an honest living. The people of Kiamaiko are resilient, resourceful, and determined to build better lives for themselves and their families. I hope that this account offers a fresh perspective on Kiamaiko, challenging the stereotypes and highlighting the dignity and humanity of its residents.

Edited by Pius Okore.

Watch the full video on YouTube below.