TURKANA: A MIX OF PROGRESS AND PERSISTENT CHALLENGES.

Turkana often conjures images of arid lands and unrelenting hardship. When I travelled to Lodwar, I expected to find a region battling isolation and scarcity. Instead, I was struck by a different reality—paved roads replacing dusty paths, electric lines stretching over traditional manyattas, and a local economy adapting to change. Yet, beneath these promising shifts, daily struggles remain as unforgiving as the Turkana sun.

When I recently travelled to Lodwar, Turkana, in northern Kenya, I anticipated finding a remote and underdeveloped region. However, upon arrival, I was utterly surprised. In a place where movement was once dictated by dusty, uneven paths, smooth tarmac now connects major parts of Lodwar, making travel easier and improving access to the heart of Turkana. This new infrastructure is more than just a convenience—it signals economic transformation. Traders can now transport goods faster, public transport is becoming more reliable, and essential services are within reach.

What stood out most was how the locals recognized visitors. Their warmth and hospitality were unmistakable in the bright smiles and enthusiastic waves that greeted us. Despite modernization, tradition remains deeply rooted in Turkana’s way of life. Unlike Nairobi, where cultural distinctions often blur, Turkana’s identity is immediately visible. Men wear brightly coloured sarongs, a tradition passed down for generations. Women, on the other hand, adorn themselves with intricate beaded jewellery that tells stories of lineage, marital status, and social standing. The craftsmanship behind each piece is impressive, with patterns and colours varying by community.

Cultural Identity

One of the most practical aspects of Turkana’s traditional attire is footwear. Many wear durable sandals made from repurposed rubber tyres, an innovation that ensures comfort and protection from rugged terrain. As we walked through the town, I was reminded of how essential these shoes were, given the thorns and rocky ground that made every step difficult.

I met Rael Lomoti, a beacon of hope in Turkana. As the founder of Desert Roses, an all-girls football team, she is challenging deeply ingrained traditions. In a culture where girls are often seen as sources of wealth and expected to marry young, her initiative provides an alternative—empowerment through sport. Through football, these girls are developing confidence, teamwork, and leadership skills that could reshape their future.

She introduced me to Moses Mbotela, her close friend and colleague, who guided me through the region. As we walked under the relentless sun, temperatures soared past 35°C, sometimes reaching 40°C. I struggled with the heat, but Mbotela, with a knowing smile, assured me that the real intensity was yet to come. The dry, dusty air felt heavy, and the landscape stretched in shades of parched earth and sparse vegetation. What shocked me most was how unfazed the locals seemed.

Our first stop was a bustling livestock yard near Lodwar town, where the bleating of goats filled the air as we entered. Herdsmen, some of whom had travelled for days, gathered to trade livestock. Many carried spears and sticks, tools essential for herding cattle, camels, and goats—the backbone of the local economy.

By 7:00 a.m., negotiations were in full swing, with herdsmen showcasing their animals. One trader proudly shared insights into their traditional diet—meat, milk, and herbal medicine, which he credited for his lifelong good health. Interestingly, many locals rarely consume vegetables, relying instead on protein-rich diets that have sustained them for centuries. Intriguingly, he carried a small container of herbal powder, which he used to treat common ailments.

Daily Life

To navigate Turkana’s vast landscape, most residents rely on motorbikes. Known locally as ‘boda bodas,’ these bikes are the most common mode of transport. As we veered off the main road onto dusty paths, I noticed the stark contrast between developed and undeveloped areas. In some places, small roadside shops sold groceries and household essentials, while in others, empty stretches of land reminded me of Turkana’s largely untouched expanse.

Electricity is another marker of change. Some villages now have direct power connections, with electric lines extending over manyattas that traditionally relied on firewood and kerosene lamps for light. The contrast is striking: in some areas, luxurious modern houses stand just kilometres away from mud-walled huts. The government’s push for rural electrification, part of a broader national strategy, has started bridging the gap, but full access remains a challenge.

Water, however, remains Turkana’s most valuable and elusive resource. During our visit, we stopped at a large water plant in Napu, where water is pumped and distributed to the town. One of the most significant water sources in the region is the Lotikipi Basin Aquifer, discovered in 2013. This vast underground reservoir, located about 300 meters below the surface near the borders of South Sudan, Ethiopia, and Uganda, holds immense potential to supply fresh water for decades.

However, its high salinity means that desalination processes like reverse osmosis are required before it can be suitable for human consumption. Initial tests conducted in February 2015 confirmed that the water is unsafe for direct use, posing a major challenge for the region. Additionally, Turkana remains sparsely populated and prone to conflict due to resource scarcity, making the management and equitable distribution of water even more complex. Extracting and maintaining water from such depths presents significant technological and logistical hurdles for the Kenyan government, underscoring the region’s persistent struggle with water insecurity.

While some water pumping and treatment plants exist, they are not enough to meet the needs of the growing population. Many still rely on unreliable sources. In one settlement, I watched as children rolled heavy jerrycans along dry riverbeds, their faces weary but determined. The contrast between Turkana’s immense underground water reserves and the everyday struggles for clean drinking water is a painful irony.

Persistence amid Hardship

Despite some improvements, the daily challenges many residents face remain daunting. One of the most eye-opening moments of my visit was meeting an elderly woman with a physical disability who earned a living by making brooms. With the help of a translator, I learned that she walked miles to town to sell them for just 10 shillings each—her only source of income before receiving relief food. Food aid, Rael Lomoti explained, arrives sporadically, sometimes once a month or less, leaving many in a constant state of uncertainty.

One of the most striking sights on our way back was the coexistence of luxury mansions and worn-out manyattas standing just kilometres apart. This contrast mirrors Turkana’s broader reality—modernization is creeping in, yet the basic struggles of food, water, and economic opportunity persist. The question remains: who truly benefits from these developments?

Paradox of Turkana

The juxtaposition of modern advancements and persistent hardships in Turkana is noticeable. There is hope, yet much remains to ensure progress reaches every corner of the community. The region’s harsh climate can feel isolating, with little shade and relentless sun, making water an invaluable resource that continues to shape the nomadic pastoral way of life.

Water scarcity is no longer just a seasonal challenge—it is a daily battle. Despite challenges such as water scarcity, extreme weather, and limited resources, the people of Turkana remain resilient and hopeful.

Their unwavering spirit, warmth, and strong sense of community were the most remarkable aspects of my visit. Even in the face of adversity, they welcome guests with open arms, eager to share their stories. Many hope that media coverage will draw the attention of organizations and institutions that can help alleviate these pressing issues, particularly food insecurity, drought relief, and water access.

While Turkana is changing, the journey toward equitable progress is far from over. The harsh climate and resource scarcity continue to shape daily life, but with targeted investments and sustained efforts, the region’s untapped potential can be unlocked. The question remains: how soon will these silver linings turn into tangible change for all?

Edited by Pius Okore.